Extremadura - A land not yet attacked by the tourist throngs - a place off the beaten path - a destination that truly is a "best-kept secret."  Extremadura - the land "beyond the Duero" is the wealth of gold and conquistadores (Pizzaro, Cortes, De Soto) - it is cork oak and wild herbs - vast open expanses and friendly people.

This is the great "outback" of Spain - little touristed with much to discover:  The valley of cherries (Jerte valley) a wondrous sea of white in spring - Roman ruins - pristinely preserved monument towns like the "World Heritage" city of Caceres, and so much more . . .

 

 

     Oropesa:

A pleasant couple of hours drive from the Barajas airport in Madrid will bring you to your first destination in the "Secret of Spain" tour. You could check into the Parador and rest a bit - then go out for pleasant afternoon or evening stroll in the village of Oropesa.  A great side-trip from here is to drive the short distance south into small town of El Puente del Arzobispo to see the ceramics works typical of this area in the many shops there.  If you are really keen on ceramics - ask for the brochure,  Ruta de la Ceramica "Pottery route," at the Parador desk. It will guide you on a very interesting 25 mile round-trip drive to local ceramics destinations.

The Parador Oropesa was built by the Counts of Toledo in the 14th century - long before the discovery of the new world.  This hotel is monolithic - in size and feel.  The rooms are some of the most authentic (unchanged by the refurbishment) in the Parador chain.  You'll get a true taste of what it might have been like to live back in those olden times.  Great views out across the Gredos valley.

 

Guadalupe:

Guadalupe is the home of the Virgin of Guadalupe - both the revered statue of the Blessed Mother - and of the still-living legend of how she came to be there. The Real Monasterio de Santa Maria de Guadalupe is well worth a visit.  Take the guided tour of the monastery - they run every hour or so.  If you are out in the early morning,  go sit on the stone benches near the front steps of the monastery - you may be lucky enough to hear the monks doing their Gregorian chant off in some far cloistered chamber.  Once a primary pilgrimage destination and known as the "Spanish Vatican," Guadalupe is now a town slumbering, simple and sweet, in its own peaceful backwater of nearly forgotten memories. This is a place for resting and contemplation - and leisurely strolls through the narrow streets that radiate out from the central plaza in front of the grand monastery - and an evening bottle of wine while sitting at an outdoor cafe table on the monastery plaza.

The Parador Guadalupe is very nice - with wonderful views over to the monastery.  Wander down into the Parador's gardens and orchard.  Sit out on your private balcony near dusk and you'll be fascinated by the swooping, high-speed play of the hundreds of swallows that come out to feed.

 

Mérida:

Mérida was founded around 25 B.C. as the city Augustus Emerita, and was once the capital of Roman Iberia and its largest city.  It has more intact Roman ruins than anywhere else in Spain.  Try to see the Teatro Romano (seated 6000 in its heyday), the Antiteatro (where gladiators fought), the Casa del Antiteatro and the Casa del Mitreo.  As well,  the majestic Puente Romano - with its 60 granite arches, it may be the longest bridge ever constructed by the Romans. Also - the Templo de Diana, the Arco de Trajano, the Portico del Foro and the Acueducto de Los Milagros. To top it off, don't miss the grand Museo Nacional de Arte Romano.  A visit to Mérida will keep you busy!

The Parador Merida is a renovated 15th century monastery.  It has a lovely open-air patio (pictured above), domed ceiling bedrooms, and a splendid lounge which was formerly a chapel.  This is one of the prettiest in the Parador chain.

 

Trujillo:

Trujillo is a simple treasure . . . Spain as it once was.  From here, Francisco Pizarro set of to explore, conquer and loot the new world.  His manor house still exists in Trujillo today.  You can also visit the low-key Casa-Pizarro museum. Walk up to the hilltop castle and explore around inside the walls built  during the occupation of the Moors.  Go inside the capilla (chapel) near there and drop a few coins in the box to watch the strangely mesmerizing, rotating statue of the Virgin Mary.  Have late-night tapas on the main square down in the Plaza Mayor.  Let your energy subside a bit and relax into an ambience far removed from the hustle and bustle of typical modern Spanish cities.

The Parador Trujillo is well-located for walking into the main part of the old town.  It is a reconstructed 16th century convent, and like the town itself - is a peaceful slice out of history.

 

     Jarandilla de la Vera:

Holy Roman Emperor Charles V lived here in the Parador building for a few months before retiring to live out his remaining time at the Monastery at Yuste (which is close to Jarandilla and makes a nice visit).  The town is surrounded by very fertile country that is crisscrossed by streams, and waterfalls ("gargantas") are abundant. Explore over to the Jerte valley - there are a couple of scenic (if not harrowing!) roads that cross over, or you can drive around through Placensia where you will stay tomorrow. The quaint village of Jarandilla is small and can be readily explored in a couple of hours.

The Parador Jarandilla De La Vera is a fortified palace built in the 15th century.  It is a tranquil place and you will very much enjoy you stay here away from the usual tourist crowds. 

 

    Plasencia:

Plasencia is the main city in the La Vera district.  A typical Extremaduran town - it has a wonderful main plaza.  Sit down at one of the many outdoor tables and wait and watch the giant elf (?) in the main clock tower strike the bell to mark each half hour.  A "cuckoo clock" on the grandest of scales!  There is a lively Tuesday market held here in the plaza - as it has been continuously since the 12th century! The old town has a worn, yet comfortable feel.  Stroll and take it in slowly - as the locals do each evening - you're beginning to get a taste of the Estremeño style of living.

The Parador Plasencia is spectacular.  A former convent, its architecture is in a Gothic style inside and out.  It was only recently restored to an incredible level of quality.  It has a provisional 5-star rating and you'll find yourself in the lap of luxury.  The Parador is perfectly located a short walk from the main plaza.

 

Cáceres:

The appearance of the old town has changed little in the last 600 years.  It has been called the "most impressive concentration of medieval stonemasonry in Europe." Don't leave your centrally-located Parador without a camera - you would regret it in this most photogenic of cities.  Strolling the monumental quarter without a timetable or guidebook makes for a most pleasing and relaxing experience.  Duck into a cozy cafe now and then to have a drink and converse with the locals. You can walk over to the western wall and pass through one of the old gates and go down some rather steep steps to the Plaza Major.  From there several interesting "shopping" streets fan off into the lower 'modern' city.

The Parador Caceres is housed in the former Torreorgaz palace.  The rooms offer more than adequate accommodations, the service is  outstanding, and the restaurant serves exceptional meals.  Dining outside in the patio on a warm night will make your meal most memorable. 

 

Madrid:

Madrid is hands-down winner of the title, "Europe's Liveliest City."  Madrilenos don't really get their day into high gear until after dinnertime - and dinner usually starts around 10:00 p.m.!  Then they flood their beloved city's streets and "pasear" (stroll around) or "tapear" (hop from tapa bar to tapa bar) until dawn. Some speak of Madrid as being drab, but how far from the truth that is!  Granted it suffers, as do many of the world's major cities, from urban sprawl - but once you get past the concrete jungle outskirts, you'll discover a city that provides endless surprises and discoveries. There are many pockets of very old buildings that contain odd assortments of shops, tiendas and bars.  You'll happen upon eighteenth-century Bourbon squares, pleasant plazas and quaint restaurants at every other turn.

Must Sees:  The Prado museum - the Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza galleries, the Plaza Mayor, the Retiro Park, Gran Via - and the list could go on and on.

But really - the thing that makes Madrid so special are the street scenes, the people and the energy that makes this the night-time, high-energy capital of Europe.